(FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS)
Can I buy some of the paint your airplanes are painted with?
Unfortunately, customs will not allow us to bring the paint over here.
So my best suggestion is to take a cowl or stab to home depot or one of
your local paint stores and have them match the color up for you. They do a
good job a getting the colors really close.
For all the airplanes it is recommended to start at 20 degrees up and down
for ailerons and elevators. This is a setting that will not get you
in trouble. You can also setup a dual rate, which is a good idea, at a
higher rate. Control throws really depend on the pilot and how aggressive
you want the airplane to fly. Rudder deflection is whatever you can get.
Flaps are another item that you will want to deflect them as far as
possible to slow the airplane down on apporoaches. For ailerons elevators
and rudder, you can also setup exponential. This will soften the feel
around the center and still have the full throw at the ends.
Recommended starting point for CG placement should be 25%-28% of the
wing cord width. Calculate the balance point based on chord width.
Example: 12” x .25 = 3”
In this case you would measure back from the leading edge 3”
at the wing root by fuse. Remember that low wing planes should
be balanced with the plane inverted and high wing planes should be
balanced upright. For airplanes like the katana, do not measure
at the tip of the flare in the wing. Take the leading edge of the
wing to the fuselage and measure from there. Also, remember that
a nose heavy airplane will fly like a slug, but a tail heavy airplane
will be uncontrollable, so it is good to start on the nose heavy side
and move the CG rearward after initial flight tests.
The retracts are the 90 degree rotating retracts we make some for $29.99,
or hobbico has similar ones as well. If you want to go the air route, you
will need the robart 615s. These do require a little bit of work to make them
work in the wing because the air retracts mount a little different from
For international orders we require a photocopy
of the credit card front and back along with a photo ID. Please email or fax
these over to us as soon as you can and we can process your order. Thank you.
To calculate the C rating load up a cell until it drops to 3.0V/cell
then read the amp.
If you have a 4S3P 14.8V 6000mAh pack take 4 x 3 = 12V as a reference
When you first hook up the fully charged pack it will probably read over
15V, that's OK. Just connect it to something that causes a load
something with a variable load.
The increase the load until you see 12V and read the Amps, if you see
12V and 60A then you have a 10C pack. If you see 42A then you have a 7C
pack. 5C would be 30A, half the 6000mAh rating.
If you use the EP 600 then take 10 * 3 = 30V (10S3P)
Load up the heli until it reads 30V and read the amps, you should see
about 40A at least for 7C. See if it can maintain it for 10 sec.
Otherwise it's not a true C rating.
You also need to know the exact mAh of the battery, to do this you need
to completely discharge the pack and recharge it to see how much it
takes. Or a better way is to fully charge it and see how much you can
get out of it during a discharge using a charger.